Spanish Franciscan priests Atanasio Domínguez and Silvestre Vélez de Escalante completed a grueling expedition through the Colorado Plateau in 1776, utilizing Native American guides to navigate vast canyon lands and cross major river systems while searching for an overland route to California.
The Search for California Route
The expedition departed from Santa Fe, New Mexico, with the primary objective of discovering a viable path to the Catholic Mission in Monterrey, California. According to records from Intermountain Histories, the party traveled northwest out of Santa Fe and moved into what is now Colorado’s Western Slope, reaching the area of present-day Grand Junction.
Expedition Route and Logistics
As the group progressed, they crossed the Green River in Utah and headed west toward the Wasatch Front. The Provo Library notes that the expedition eventually reached the southern portion of present-day Utah Valley, specifically near the area of modern-day Spanish Fork.
To manage the logistics of such a long journey, which lasted just over one year, the explorers traveled with a large number of pack animals, including horses, mules, and donkeys. These animals were essential for carrying goods and facilitating trade with Native American populations encountered along the route.
Return Journey Challenges
The expedition's progress was marked by significant challenges. After failing to find an easy route to California and becoming disappointed with their overall pace, the priests began a return journey using an alternate path. This return trek took them south toward present-day Cedar City, Utah, before cutting east along the edges of the Grand Staircase region.
This southern route led them toward Glen Canyon and the Colorado River, where they faced one of the most difficult segments of their travels.
The Difficult River Crossing
Finding a safe way to cross the Colorado River in the Glen Canyon region proved difficult. According to translated journals from the priests, the expedition had to perform manual labor to move their livestock down to the river level. The journal entries describe how it became necessary to use axes to cut steps into a stone cliff so that their mounts—including horses, mules, and donkeys—could be led down to the canyon.
Once the animals were safely descended, the group searched for a crossing point. They eventually located a relatively easy spot with low water flow that allowed them to swim across. On November 7, 1776, the expedition successfully crossed the Colorado River to begin their final leg back to Santa Fe.
Lost Under Lake Powell
While the expedition's route is historically significant, the specific location of the 'Crossing of the Fathers' remains a subject of historical interest and modern mystery. In the two centuries following the event, few travelers followed this exact crossing, as Native peoples frequently utilized other, more accessible locations in the region, such as easier cliffs to descend or slower, meandering sections of the river further north.
Today, the original site of the crossing is believed to be submerged under the waters of Lake Powell. While the physical staircase carved into the stone cliff is likely covered by the reservoir, researchers and amateur explorers continue to search for traces of the route. It has been noted that falling water levels in the area may one day reveal the location of this historical landmark.
Historical Documentation and Research
Historical research into the expedition has been supported by various scholars and explorers. Documentation includes the work of Richard W. Sprang, whose collection at Northern Arizona University includes images of possible crossing locations near canyon bends. Other researchers, such as Tad Nichols, have also investigated the site; in 1958, Nichols identified a potential spot for the crossing and documented where he believed the stone staircase was located near Padre Bay.
Scholars continue to study the expedition through translated primary sources. The works of Angelico Chavez and Ted J. Warner provide English translations of the original journals, while other resources like the Diario y Derrotero edited by Jarom McDonald offer digitized images of the original diaries and Spanish transcriptions.
Preserving Expedition History
The legacy of the Domínguez-Escalante expedition is preserved through historical markers, such as the Escalante Trail Historical Marker, and academic archives. The journey remains a foundational piece of the history of the Colorado Plateau and the exploration of the American Southwest.
